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Dave Martin - Upstate Super Replicars Daytona Coupe
 
   Work on the chassis was actually started when I visited Bill in his shop - he
usually always has one on the rack and then steps up the pace when a buyer
orders so I got to see the chassis very early.  The great thing about Upstate
is the weekly updates I got from Bill on the progress of the Coupe.  Each week
or so I'd get a care package letting me see the work going on and letting me
live vicariously through Bill and his champion welder.  Yes, that's Bill's shop and
my chassis being laid up, and after powder coating.  Unlike other companies that
will powder coat your chassis for you in any color as long as it's black, red was
my choice and Bill was more than happy to oblige.  The chassis is a very stout 
assembly comprising 4 inch main tubes and allot of support.  Rear suspension is
welded up for early model Jaguar while the front, made for matching Jaguar
geometry is set for one of Accurate Machine Products front end.  Motor mounts
are perfect for small block Fords but can also be set up for big blocks.
      
 
While this was going on back east I had started with a used and very dirty 
Jaguar XJS rear suspension unit and started the cleaning/rebuild process.  The
rear end had the traditional in-board brakes - note: the first Daytona had
inboards but they were quickly swapped out for outboards as dealing with brake
issues during a race is next to impossible for inboards.  My unit came with 2:88
gears in a Salsbury traction-loc housing.  Other than cleaning, I replaced all
bearings and seals and verified specs to Jaguar service standards.  I also 
rebuilt the Girling calipers and coated them in high temp red caliper epoxy.
      
With the rear end installed into the frame I started on the front steering rack
which is also a Jaguar donor from the early Series I and II XKE's.  I found this one
at my favorite parts shop - E-Bay - and after getting it home went to work 
dis-assembling and cleaning it.  As with the rear end, all seals were replaced, the
rack was powder coated to match the frame and the unit re-assembled following
Jaguars instructions.
        
 
2/14/06 update
Success!  I finally have a car - sort of - since I've got the rear end in and locked 
down.  I went with lower arms from Accurate Machine Products since they offer 
a much more robust triangulation of the rear axel hubs than the standard Jaguar
tubular arms.  As with anything Jaguar, the secret password is tolerances! 
Things I learned while working through this install:
-  Read the Jaguar shop manual.
-  Follow the shop manual on all specs!  DO NOT guestimate tolerances.  Jaguar 
   invented the universal "shim" for this purpose.
-  If your frame was powder coated, strip it off where the center section meets
   as it adds too much stack-up and will make lining up the lower arm attachment
   bolts that go through the frame impossibly tough to align and install without
   consuming copious amount of alcohol.
-  Dry fit all parts, especially if you've replaced the stock parts with aftermarket
   like I did with the AMP lower arms.  I found that they did not support the stock
   inboard Jaguar brakes and I had to grind out sections for clearance.  I verified
   full travel with one of the shocks - less the coil - to make sure if I ever bottom
   out the extreme travel didn't cause bigger problems.  I also found the shocks
   to not center on the frame attachment points (not sure if this is due to a 
   manufacturing problem of the frame or an offset due to the AMP arms) so I had
   to cut .75" off one side and add a shim to the opposite side.
-  I also coated the aluminum arms with "Zoop Seal" which was recommended as
   a way to keep them from oxidizing over time.  This is a self preservation feature
   as I'm not going to be laying under this car polishing the aluminum every month!
   I'll let you know how it works in about a year.
      
 
5/26/06 Update
The gods of mercy have smiled on me and I was able to purchase my front
suspension from Accurate Machined Products (AMP).  This is a very slick setup
based on Jaguar XKE geometry but with some additional engineering put into it
to eliminate allot of the Jaguars weakness.  It sports an all chromalloy
construction mounted on billet mounting blocks a solid Delrin bushings with coil
over shocks.  The brakes are stout 11" x 1.25" thick disks and Wilwood SL4 
racing calipers.  Standard on AMP's front suspensions are 6 pin drive so I now
have to go back and retrofit the rear hubs for 6 pin drives to get it even again!
yes, I could go to an adapter but then I'd have 5 pins in back and 6 pins in front
and a spare that could only be one type.  Not on my car we won't!  While I was 
installing the front I was thinking about transporting the car by trailer and was
not thrilled at the thought of tow straps and chains going around my suspension
arms.  I starting thinking about the factory hold down points that I used to see
1970's Torino's and Mustangs, wondering why I couldn't do the same for a Coupe.
What you see in the lower right hand picture is that bracket created for my
Daytona Coupe.  It's 3/16" steel, powder coated to match the frame and bolted
into the front suspension point.  Pretty Slick aye?  Suspension as shown is with 
the ride height gauge installed instead of the shocks and with the final look of 
shocks and sway bar.
 
      
 
08/08/07 Update
I now have a roller!  Just received delivery of a set of Vintage Wheels Halibrand
replica rims.  I opted for the 8.5 x 17's in front and 10.5 x 17's in back.  Bob 
Lacy at Vintage wheels was great and helped in getting the right offsets and even
the right color (white).  Now comes fitting the right tires...  I want to fill the wheel
wells but I also don't want anything big enough to rub or damage the suspension.
You can do this many ways including trial and error but I opted to cut out a foam
core wheel and use it for checking clearances.  I started with a 26" tire size and 
will play with it a little more before I actually mount tires.
      
 
February 2008 Update
Back from paint so the rear hubs can now be converted over to pin drives.  The
rear rims are 10.5 x 17 and i could easily put 26" tires on with plenty of room.
 

 

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